For The Love of Frills: gennaio 2023

domenica 29 gennaio 2023

Guide to commonly used Lolita terminology

Volume 5: brief Lolita fashion dictionary

If you're confused by some abbreviations and and terms used in the fashion, hopefully, this brief guide will clear some things up!

Brand: used often in reference to major Lolita brands Like Angelic Pretty, Baby the Stars Shine Bright, etc.

Comm: short for ''community''.

Coord: short for ''coordinate'', a term used to refer to one's Lolita outfit.

JSK: abbreviation for ''jumperskirt'', a sleveless dress that is made to be worn with a blouse underneath.

KC: abbreviation for ''katyusha'', japanese for headbow. Headband with a bow on top.

OP: abbreviation for ''one piece'', a dress that has some sort of sleeves and doesn't require a blouse under.

OTK: abbreviation for ''over the knee socks''.

OTT: short for ''over the top''. Refers to very fancy Lolita coords with many accessories and details. It is usually common in Sweet Lolita.

WTB: ''want to buy''. Used in marketplaces when one is interested in buying a certain item.

WTT: ''want to trade'', when one is interested in trading a piece of their own for something else.

GLB: Gothic & Lolita Bible - the name of a Japanese fashion magazine.

EGL: stands for "Elegant Gothic Lolita" but is usually just used in reference to the name of the Lolita livejournal community.

Fukubukuro: the Japanese word for "Lucky Pack".

Brolita: A male who participates in the Lolita fashion by wearing the girl styles. Mana is an example of a famous Brolita.

NWOT: ''new without tags''. When an item is being sold brand new but is missing the tag.

NWT: stands for ''new with tags''.

And this is pretty much it! I didn't add many terms because I think that they're not really used anymore in the community and it could be confusing.

This post was very short but there's nothing more to add.

I will be posting twice weekly as usual and if you have any questions or would like to request a particular topic you can leave a comment here or on my other socials as usual.

Thank you and see you in the next post. ^^

lunedì 23 gennaio 2023

What is an ''ita'' and how to avoid being one

Volume 4: what to avoid in Lolita

In my previous posts, you learned what is Lolita fashion and where to buy it, but what should you avoid to build good coordinates?

Disclaimer: you can wear whatever you want, just don't call it Lolita!

What is an ''ita''?

Ita Lolita is a negative term used to describe attempts at the fashion gone wrong. Often, ita outfits are associated with poor quality clothing, not-so-coordinated coordinates and using non-lolita and cosplay items.

There are some things to know if you want to steer clear from the ''ita'' label and ace your coordinates even as a beginner.

Avoid costume fabrics. Satin, stiff laces and stretch velvets are cheap fabrics used in
costumes and they will make almost anything look like a terrible halloween dress. Most dresses like that claim to be ''Lolita'' are just poor quality cosplay attempts. Lolita is meant to look elegant, no matter which style you’re going for, and using low quality fabrics, ribbons, etc. definitely takes away the aesthetic you should be looking for.

costume satin dress

Stay away from dresses with too much lace. Lace should be a detail, not a focus. Adding random lace won't make a dress more ''Lolita'' and the quality of the fabric used is very important! You want you dresses to look good. If the color of the lace and the fabric are really far apart, they should be well balanced. Avoid dresses with cheap and scratchy lace with no real thought put into where it's placed. An example of lace details gone wrong:

Too much lace on the skirt and bodice, looks stiff and scratchy and sticks out too much on the black fabric.

And an example of a dress who did it right and why:

Different, high quality lace designs are used and aren't just thrown around randomly creating a mess, but they compliment the black fabric of the dress adding a nice detail without sticking out too much. It's about balance. And quality.

Don't immediately try to be "unique"- You really can't mix the style up successfully until you get the basics and you know what you're doing. Keep it simple when you’re starting out. Don't try to add too many colors or details or mix sub styles. I suggest to not mix j-fashion sub styles and Lolita either. It can be confusing to understand how to put them together. Learning the basics and putting simple coords together will help you learn to coordinate a successful and beautiful outfit in the future. Slow down and really take some time to figure things out rather than just throwing together this, and that. A big part of Lolita is good coordination, this can mean a lot of things. Putting colors together, knowing what accessories look good together, coordinating your hair and makeup with your clothes, etc.

Keep your love for anime out of Lolita. Do not let anime influence the way you look at Lolita. The characters from Rozen Maiden aren’t Lolitas. Misa Amane from Death Note is not a Gothic Lolita. There are very few proper representations of Lolita in anime. So as much as you may love anime, leave that love of anime out of Lolita as much as possible. Lolita is NOT cosplay.

Avoid Amazon, Milanoo and Wish. I've said this in the last post but I'll say it again. Don't. Shop. There. Seriously, it's not worth it. Most ''Lolita'' dresses that they sell are really just cheap manufacturing cosplay dresses like this one. This is not Lolita. They're not worth the money.

Research. Really. I know when you're just starting out, the urge to wear it is strong! You want to look like that right now but the more research you do, the more you will be able to understand things like which stores to avoid, what looks ''costume-y'' and what doesn't and how to spend your money on items that are actually worth it. This way you'll develop you eye for the fashion and help figure out what's tacky, what's ita etc. along with understanding what you like best and what doesn't really suit your tastes. Look at coordinates and talk with other Lolitas, don't be afraid to ask questions! The Lolita subreddit is very helpful. Knowledge comes from experience!

This post is not trying to discourage anyone! Lolita can be really hard and the sooner you see that, the sooner you can overcome it.

If you like something that other people call Ita that’s okay, like I said in the disclaimer, there's nothing wrong with wearing something that's simply not Lolita, you can rock whatever you want! Just remember that just because you do like Lolita, doesn't mean that you have to force the label on every frilly dress you see.

I hope this last and brief guide was helpful and that this series could answer most of your questions on Lolita fashion. As always, if you have any questions you can leave a comment here or find me on my other socials. Now that you know all the basics, it's time to go shopping!

See you in the next post. ^^

venerdì 20 gennaio 2023

Where to buy Lolita fashion

Volume 3: where to buy Lolita fashion

In Volume 1 and Volume 2 I talked about Lolita fashion basics and substyles.

Now that you have enough information on the fashion, it's time to build your wardrobe!

Lolita brands

Most japanese Lolita brands have websites to shop from. Some may or may not require a shopping service.

About Bodyline

Bodyline is a great option for Lolitas on a budget. It's a much easier, cheaper and quicker way to shop for newbies to buy their first pieces without spending their life savings on brands, but there are a few things you should keep in mind if you want to have a good quality coordinate.

The quality is a hit or miss. Look for reviews of the specific item you want. While most of their clothes now are of good quality, they still have pieces of questionable quality or design and use stiff lace and cheap fabrics.

Keep it simple. The best pieces on Bodyline are relatively simple, in solid colors and simple prints. Avoid busy designs.

Buying secondhand

One of the best things about Lolita fashion is the secondhand market, where you can find good pieces at honest prices. Some may or may not require a shopping service.

Be careful when shopping on western secondhand websites, some sellers may list clothes that aren't Lolita under the ''Lolita'' tag and it can be confusing if you're looking to buy your first dress. If you really have to, I suggest you put brand names in the search bar instead.

TaoBao

''I've heard of a site called TaoBao, what is it?'' TaoBao is essentially chinese eBay. Many indie chinese brands sell their items via TaoBao. It can be quite complicated to understand, so I decided to write a separate section about it. TaoBao generally requires a sopping service and almost everything on the website is written in chinese. Using the browser's translation feature is useful.

If you don't want to buy directly from TaoBao, here's a list of resellers that don't require the presence of a shopping service.

Most TaoBao resellers overcharge for items that can be purchased for far cheaper prices. It's highly advised that you compare prices between these resellers and the original TaoBao prices + shipping. Resellers can be less intimidating to buy from if you're new and it's still less expensive than most brands pieces, but keep this in mind when you're purchasing.

Protecting against scams

Because most foreign Lolitas do not have access to the items at hand, buying online for the first time can be intimidating. Stock photos can be misleading about an item's color and fit. Regardless, check the stock photos on Lolibrary or another reliable source. Try to look up the item you're interested in styled in a coordinate. If you buy from other Lolitas make sure to check their feedback. If it's not listed, ask for some proof that they're legit and if you're not given any form of it, it would be best to stay cautious. When paying via PayPal, send payment as for ''goods/services'' instead of ''for friends/family''. Doing this allows PayPal to protect you in case anything happens.

Do NOT shop on Milanoo, Lighinthebox, Wish, and avoid Amazon. The first two sites are known scammers and most ''Lolita'' pieces on Amazon and Wish are cheap cosplay dresses or replicas.

This is all you should know when buying Lolita online! In the next and last guide I will talk about what items and dresses to avoid to build good quality outfits and wardrobes.

If you have any questions you can leave a comment or find me on my other socials.

See you in the next post. ^^

venerdì 13 gennaio 2023

A guide to Lolita Substyles

Volume 2: The Subtyles

Like I said on my last post, that you can read here in case you missed it, Lolita is divided into three main styles: Gothic, Classic and Sweet.

In Volume 1 I wrote a brief introduction to each one but in this guide I'll go more in depth and cover other substyles that I didn't mention. While the Lolita look has some elements that stay the same regardless, it can be broken into styles based on motifs, themes and styling. Not every Lolita coordinate fits exactly in a single one but can have mixed elements.

As a beginner, it is usually easier to stick with a single, well defined substyle and expand from there as you pick up the necessary informations to mix up your outfits.

Classic Lolita

While Lolita itself is influenced by historic fashion, Classic Lolita is heavily inspired by Victorian and Edwardian fashion. Solid colors, floral motifs, stripes, gobelins, antiques, architecture, crowns and paintings are common print themes. Colors tend to be more muted and dusty pastels, rich jewel tones and velvets are also one of the main characteristics.

Classic Lolita dresses tend to be A-Line shaped and the skirts are usually longer than what you'd see in Sweet Lolita, to achieve a more elegant look.

Gothic Lolita

Gothic Lolita is a substyle inspired by gothic fashion. It's often said that this particular style was created by Mana (in the picture above), owner of the brand Moi-même-Moitié and guitarist of Moi dix Mois and Malice Mizer.

Gothic Lolita's popularity has significantly decreased over time compared to it's two counterparts, which makes it more difficult to find gothic styled pieces. Gothic Lolita brands tend to be a bit more expensive. Dresses are usually black but they can be white or jewel toned as well.

Crosses, stained glass, angels, coffins, gothic architecture and cemeteries are common motifs and print themes in this style to achieve a dark and vampiric look.

Skirts are mainly A-Line shaped.

Accessories are mainly in silver and gold. Crosses, skull and roses are popular designs. Modern looks use thinner heels, while old school Gothic Lolita looks were almost always paired with chunky platform heels.

Sweet Lolita

Sweet Lolita is by far the most popular style.

Common motifs and print themes are fruit, candy, animals, toys, stars, sweet and the main focus is to achieve a youthful and cute look; for this reason, dresses and skirts are shorter and a bell shaped petticoat is preferred to give a princess-y appearance to the coordinate.

Pastel colors like lavender, pink, sax, yellow and mint are a staple characteristic of this style but black dresses with pastel prints aren't uncommon and black x pink is also a popular combination.

Sweet Lolita accessories often include plastic rings portraying animals, bows and other ''kawaii'' things. Necklaces and bangles in pastels are also worn.

Wigs in unnatural colors and large headbows with matching prints to the dress are usually part of a Sweet Lolita outfit.

Low tea party shoes with straps and bows are the main choice.

Other substyles

Country Lolita

Country Lolita is a style of Lolita which often uses straw baskets, hats, fruit, and gingham patterns. It's more casual and coordinates are simple, with fruits or flower themed accessories.

Straw hats, basket and bags are popular. Shorter socks are preferred compared to tights and they often appear in solid colors.

Gingham fabrics are a staple of this substyle and head accessories include flowers, straw hats or simple bonnets. Shoes can be simple tea parties in neutral colors or boots.

This style isn't as intricate as the others but it keeps the Lolita look thanks to it's main elements.

Sailor Lolita

Sailor Lolita is a style inspired by japanese sailor uniforms and nautical motifs. The main feature of this style is the sailor collar. Dresses are often in solid colors like black, blue and white. It's not uncommon to see pieces with fewer or no frills at all.

The skirts are pleated and bell shaped.

Prints are rare but the ones that exist present nautical themes like anchors, fish, mermaids and ships.

Head accessories are simple and often include sailor berets, straw boater hats or captain styled hats. Simple headbows in matching colors are also an option.

Although striped socks may not work with a lot of Lolita styles, they often look nice when coordinated into a Sailor Lolita outfit.

Old School Lolita

Old School Lolita is how the fashion as we know it today originated, from before prints were standard. Despite its age, it is still frequently worn and brands still make special releases dedicated to it.

Dresses are much simpler than the ones released today and border prints weren't popular.

It's recognizable by it's simplified color schemes and black and white combination.

Solid colors like black, red, sax and white were the most used but floral and checkered patterns were also popular.

The skirts were A-Line shaped and the coordinates were toned down compared to the ones we see today.

The main accessories were knee-lenght socks with border lace, bags and rectangle headdresses.

Simple mary janes, platform or rocking horse shoes are the main choices with this style.

Casual Lolita

Casual Lolita isn't exactly a substyle but rather a way to describe every coordinated that is more toned down. This style of the fashion ca be hard to pull off and to understand. It maintains the typical Lolita silhouette without over the top accessories or super puffy petticoats.

It's the same as any Lolita style but favors simplicity instead of intricate accessories and prints. Cutsews are usually preferred over blouses and they are usually paired with a Lolita skirt and hair accessories.

Every style of Lolita can be worn this way and it's a nice option if you want to wear Lolita everyday and be comfortable.

I tried to explain the most popular substyles the best I can. There are still many styles of Lolita fashion that I didn't cover on this guide, but as a beginner it's better to stick to simpler ones since the others aren't as a popular and therefore it's harder to find reference pictures or pieces that fit the aesthetic.

In the next guide, I'll explain where to buy Lolita clothing and what to avoid.

If you have any questions you can leave a comment or find me on my other socials.

Let me know if there's a particular topic you would like to read about on my blog. ^^

mercoledì 11 gennaio 2023

What is Lolita?

Volume 1: The Basics

As a newcomer to Lolita fashion, it can be hard to know where to start, and what to look for.

But what is, exactly, Lolita fashion?

Lolita (ロリータ) is a street fashion and subculture that originated in Japan in the 80s and 90s, known for it's intricate look inspired by Rococo and Victorian fashion garments.

The name ''Lolita'' has unknown origins and has nothing to do with Vladimir Nabokov's book.

The fashion covers a large variety of sub-styles and the look is usually distinguished by it's silhouette.

The classic Lolita silhouette provides a knee-lenght skirt, A-Line and bell shaped skirts are most common and its given thanks to the help of a petticoat.

Garments are constructed with strict attention to detail and material quality. It’s common to see heirloom sewing techniques, elaborate textile prints, lace, ruffles and ribbons.

The fashion is highly modest with high necklines, blouses are worn under sleeveless dresses, and legs often being covered with tights or long socks. Puffy shorts called bloomers are worn under dresses and skirts for modesty. Blouses, cutsews, knee-lenght socks, thights and headwear are almost always part of a Lolita coordinate.

How to achieve the Lolita silhouette

There are many types of dresses and blouses in Lolita. Figuring out what kind of sub-style you're interested in is the first step to building your wardrobe.

The bell shaped skirt flares down from the waist and drapes down in a soft curve, it's usually gathered at the waist.

This style is common within Sweet Lolita and a rounder shape is preferred instead of the sharper A-line angles favored in Classic and Gothic, though this does not always hold true.

A-Line skirts (bottom right) do not immediately flare out from the waist like the bell shaped ones, but gradually flares out towards the hem creating a sharper shape. The skirt is not necessarily gathered into the waist.

It's common to see this kind of shape in Gothic, Classic and Old School styles.

Some cuts of Lolita dresses can be worn without a petticoat.

Lolita sub-styles

There are three main styles of the Lolita look – Sweet lolita, Classic lolita and Gothic lolita. There are also many other sub-styles of Lolita fashion. Styles can be mixed or combined to create different and interesting outfits. When you are still new to lolita it’s advisable to stick to one of these three styles. More intricate sub-styles can be difficult to pull off without the experience to know what does and doesn’t work in the more common styles. It’s also easier to build up your wardrobe by sticking to well known themes.