venerdì 13 gennaio 2023

A guide to Lolita Substyles

Volume 2: The Subtyles

Like I said on my last post, that you can read here in case you missed it, Lolita is divided into three main styles: Gothic, Classic and Sweet.

In Volume 1 I wrote a brief introduction to each one but in this guide I'll go more in depth and cover other substyles that I didn't mention. While the Lolita look has some elements that stay the same regardless, it can be broken into styles based on motifs, themes and styling. Not every Lolita coordinate fits exactly in a single one but can have mixed elements.

As a beginner, it is usually easier to stick with a single, well defined substyle and expand from there as you pick up the necessary informations to mix up your outfits.

Classic Lolita 

While Lolita itself is influenced by historic fashion, Classic Lolita is heavily inspired by Victorian and Edwardian fashion. Solid colors, floral motifs, stripes, gobelins, antiques, architecture, crowns and paintings are common print themes. Colors tend to be more muted and dusty pastels, rich jewel tones and velvets are also one of the main characteristics.

Classic Lolita dresses tend to be A-Line shaped and the skirts are usually longer than what you'd see in Sweet Lolita, to achieve a more elegant look.

Gothic Lolita

Gothic Lolita is a substyle inspired by gothic fashion. It's often said that this particular style was created by Mana (in the picture above), owner of the brand Moi-même-Moitié and guitarist of Moi dix Mois and Malice Mizer.

Gothic Lolita's popularity has significantly decreased over time compared to it's two counterparts, which makes it more difficult to find gothic styled pieces. Gothic Lolita brands tend to be a bit more expensive. Dresses are usually black but they can be white or jewel toned as well.

Crosses, stained glass, angels, coffins, gothic architecture and cemeteries are common motifs and print themes in this style to achieve a dark and vampiric look.
Skirts are mainly A-Line shaped.

Accessories are mainly in silver and gold. Crosses, skull and roses are popular designs. Modern looks use thinner heels, while old school Gothic Lolita looks were almost always paired with chunky platform heels.

Sweet Lolita

Sweet Lolita is by far the most popular style.
Common motifs and print themes are fruit, candy, animals, toys, stars, sweet and the main focus is to achieve a youthful and cute look; for this reason, dresses and skirts are shorter and a bell shaped petticoat is preferred to give a princess-y appearance to the coordinate.

Pastel colors like lavender, pink, sax, yellow and mint are a staple characteristic of this style but black dresses with pastel prints aren't uncommon and black x pink is also a popular combination.

Sweet Lolita accessories often include plastic rings portraying animals, bows and other ''kawaii'' things. Necklaces and bangles in pastels are also worn.
Wigs in unnatural colors and large headbows with matching prints to the dress are usually part of a Sweet Lolita outfit.

Low tea party shoes with straps and bows are the main choice. 

Other substyles
Country Lolita

Country Lolita is a style of Lolita which often uses straw baskets, hats, fruit, and gingham patterns. It's more casual and coordinates are simple, with fruits or flower themed accessories.
Straw hats, basket and bags are popular. Shorter socks are preferred compared to tights and they often appear in solid colors.

Gingham fabrics are a staple of this substyle and head accessories include flowers, straw hats or simple bonnets. Shoes can be simple tea parties in neutral colors or boots.

This style isn't as intricate as the others but it keeps the Lolita look thanks to it's main elements.

Sailor Lolita


Sailor Lolita is a style inspired by japanese sailor uniforms and nautical motifs. The main feature of this style is the sailor collar. Dresses are often in solid colors like black, blue and white. It's not uncommon to see pieces with fewer or no frills at all.
The skirts are pleated and bell shaped.

Prints are rare but the ones that exist present nautical themes like anchors, fish, mermaids and ships.

Head accessories are simple and often include sailor berets, straw boater hats or captain styled hats. Simple headbows in matching colors are also an option.

Although striped socks may not work with a lot of Lolita styles, they often look nice when coordinated into a Sailor Lolita outfit.

Old School Lolita

Old School Lolita 
is how the fashion as we know it today originated, from before prints were standard. Despite its age, it is still frequently worn and brands still make special releases dedicated to it.
Dresses are much simpler than the ones released today and border prints weren't popular.
It's recognizable by it's simplified color schemes and black and white combination.

Solid colors like black, red, sax and white were the most used but floral and checkered patterns were also popular.

The skirts were A-Line shaped and the coordinates were toned down compared to the ones we see today.
The main accessories were knee-lenght socks with border lace, bags and rectangle headdresses.

Simple mary janes, platform or rocking horse shoes are the main choices with this style.

Casual Lolita

Casual Lolita
isn't exactly a substyle but rather a way to describe every coordinated that is more toned down. This style of the fashion ca be hard to pull off and to understand. It maintains the typical Lolita silhouette without over the top accessories or super puffy petticoats. 

It's the same as any Lolita style but favors simplicity instead of intricate accessories and prints. Cutsews are usually preferred over blouses and they are usually paired with a Lolita skirt and hair accessories.

Every style of Lolita can be worn this way and it's a nice option if you want to wear Lolita everyday and be comfortable.

I tried to explain the most popular substyles the best I can. There are still many styles of Lolita fashion that I didn't cover on this guide, but as a beginner it's better to stick to simpler ones since the others aren't as a popular and therefore it's harder to find reference pictures or pieces that fit the aesthetic.
In the next guide, I'll explain where to buy Lolita clothing and what to avoid.
If you have any questions you can leave a comment or find me on my other socials.
Let me know if there's a particular topic you would like to read about on my blog. ^^


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